Wednesday 2 January 2011
Team onsight ascent of the 4 pitch classic 5.10c "Nightcrawler" with Nick the Alaskan! Wonderful route! Nick climbed the first 2 pitches in one long pitch, then I followed (after a short simul-climb) to the halfway anchor and lead the next 2 pitches, also strung together in one long pitch. I had the cream of the leading, with the 2 pitches I did both 5.10c and the crux low on the last pitch. Fantastic laybacking all the way up with only a few reprieves.
Nick rapped down a ropelength (70m) over "Time's Up", a 5.11d route with bad bolts and bad anchors, so he could toprope the upper half of the route. Hard climbing. I lead the first 2 (easier) pitches of it from the ground, and didn't clip a single bolt (they were all mank). Luckily the gear was ok and the climbing not so hard. We replaced the tat on both the first and second pitch anchors to safely descend.
On the way home we did a little funky single pitch trad route called "Juggernaut", a 5.10d stemming and jamming corner. I toproped it clean after Nick led it. Very cool finger jams.
Thursday 3 march 2011
Rest day.
Friday 4 March 2011
Mel and Emil arrived and we went climbing in the Black Corridor and the Gallery at the 2nd Pullout of Calico Hills - great sport area! Did a few 5.10s quite easily, so I'm happy that my base level of climbing fitness is coming up. I think the trad stuff I've been doing is really helping. Next stop was the Gallery - I had been there a couple of times before, so I had a plan of routes to try this time. I tried "The Gift" 5.12d with Emil and managed to do all the moves first time. A good one to try to redpoint. Also worked out the crux of "The Glitch" 5.12c with Emil's help, so I think that one should also go down without too many more tries. I think the grades of those are around 25/26, so it will be great if I can do them quickly. Power is returning slowly.
We are sharing a camping spot in the campground, and its great to be with friends rather than being on my own and trying to meet people. It will be hard when they leave to go back to being alone, so I need to try harder to meet people now before they leave so I can transition more easily.
We're planning to meet back up at Indian Creek later in the month, and I think it will be invaluable to have Emil's guidance there on the hard cracks. If I can learn to climb well there, Yosemite will be that much easier.
Saturday 5 March 2011
More sport climbing in the 2nd Pullout of Calico Hills. Did everything but onsight "Running Man", a sensational 5.11c or d. Fell at first bolt on a long move to crimps, then pulled the move off the rope (the same as doing it from the ground, as the few moves below are a staircase) and onsighted to the top. Great route! Then almost onsighted "Stratocaster" 5.11d, but the top was quite hard after so much climbing. Tried "Choad Warrior" to the first chains (5.12a) but found it very hard. yes there is a Choad Warrior here! Also ticked off the 11a that I toproped barefoot a few days ago - "One Eyed Jacks", and onsighted "Footloose" 5.11b next to it. That was hard!
Sunday 6 march 2011
A day sport climbing at Sandstone Quarry (also is Calico Hills). Some easy warmups is the Front Corridor, then an onsight of "Sonic Youth" 5.11d. To the Trophy area and dog up a great route called "The Trophy" 5.12b/c (26??). Couple of burns on it, but couldn't redpoint yet. Should go. Flash the 12a start of "Keep Your Powder Dry" at the end of the day.
Mel has been quite sick for the few days they have been here, so for her I'm sure hasn't been much fun, but like a trooper she's come out every day and taken photos.
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